trailer

this is the new rig- if I had to do it over again perhaps a lighter steel bike to go with it since the long-haul is built for panniers. Its about 6 lbs heavier than another bike but acceptable for the 26" wheels, very stable.  I've got one small pannier in back for lunch and things I need during the day.

The trailer makes it very easy to make a laundry run or pick up, say, a mini-watermelon in the evening before camp. But what if we didn't eat it? YES, that means I'm carrying a WATERMELON all day (its wrapped up on the back).  As I was climbing rolling hills I kept thinking this will be the best tasting melon ever.

The trailer is awkward to park, so I got a kickstand. The sound takes me back decades, I was a kid the last time I heard that sound on my bike.  Next I may get some shiny streamer tassles for the flag.

Back to America and official route- Grand Forks to Kettle Falls

Getting used to cycling in the heat. What were tailwinds yesterday became challenging headwinds today. But the scenery is still exceptional. 

THOUGHT we would get another early start since we had treated ourselves to the first motel stay of the trip. (TV! Laundry!) But we both had mechanicals in the morning- Rich's shifting is acting up, and my front flat tire flatted from a defective valve. Always something it seems...

Camping tonight in Kettle Falls. Back on the official Adventure Cycling Northern Tier Route. Our detour added a day but well worth it.

Canadian detour was amazing

The descent from the ski area, through Chesaw, around to Curlew, then following the Kettle River up into Canada was up there with the most amazing stellar road cycling rides I've done.  After rolling over and through sweeping farmland valleys and hills dotted with pine and aspens, we descended through steep narrow mossy rock and forest canyon with swoopy twisting road all to ourselves, for miles and miles. Finally leveled out at the river- bordered by lush meadows and rocky cliffs.  Back to dry and hot, but with a brisk tailwind we made good miles.  Border Patrol were interested in our trip.

Havilla to Grand Forks Canada

Almost at the crest of the climb, 4 powerful horses greeted us at the top- one charging down to Rich in front. They were exceptionally inquisitive, looking back and forth between us. When I rode closer, two ran up to get a closer look at me.  I've worked at stables before, I was impressed with these animals.

Passed several historical abandoned homesteads from the turn of the century. 

Passed by the smallest Washington state park, for Ranald MacDonald. Half caucasion and half Salish indian, he is now honored by the Japanese to be the first person to teach English in the 1700's.

Riverside to Havilla

Road started flat and HOT- 94°… climbed up to pines and rolling farms.

And should have learned a lesson from "Montana miles"- anything close to Canada is going to be bigger too. When he said, oh there's about 1000 feet of climbing, I should have thought 1000 METERS, lol. Especially when the road sign points up to a ski area in 17 miles, about a 3500 foot elevation gain. My legs were fried with 3-1/2 more miles to go, when we came upon Havilla, basically an historical Lutheran church with a farm across the street.  She let us camp,  another very peaceful night. Woke to a large owl perched right above us.

Got an early start. Part way up I came upon two large hawks on the wire.  Also a large flock of sleepy blackbirds- I was riding just slow enough not to startle them away, but just sweep them along the road and telephone wires, they chirped as they moved in waves.

off the grid for a while

planning to ride up following the Kettle River into Canada instead of Sherman Pass- we'll be out of cell range for a few days

Twisp over Loup Loup Pass to Riverside

Arid craggy mountains with irrigated small farms and orchards dotting the sagey valleys. Hot! but its a dry heat...

saw several stands of eagles nests with eaglets chirping/screeching

Met Scott, who is touring with a Bike Friday folding bike- says the downhills get kinda twitchy and the brakes heat up. Another interesting friend with fascinating conversation at the camp ground.

Didn't quite make it to Tonasket, so we stayed at Riverside- saw this fun yard art- all twirling in the wind.

Rest day in Twisp

a generous warmshowers host let us stay at his home while he is away on a tour. He said his place is 200 square feet.  Yes, 200. Didn't know what to expect, but found this to be tremendously comfortable in a minimalist efficient way.  A log home with two levels, full kitchen and bath. The sun streams through a corner window onto tile floors.  The driveway consists of a small slab that fits two bikes, since he doesn't own a car. We decided to stay for a rest day.

At the grocery store we met a woman cycling around Washington parks- she is teaching in Spain and races there. I was so impressed that she had just rode 92 miles, including that mondo pass!  She mentioned she was thinking about camping at the rv park, but we offered the futon at our little place (yes there's room!)  She is so energetic and vibrant we had alot of fun staying up late talking about adventures.  We wish her safe and fun travels!

Mazama to Twisp, and serendipity

we belong to warmshowers.org, where we can find people who will host us to stay for the night.  we have enjoyed immensely meeting so many different, gracious people.

On our way to Twisp, we stopped in Winthrop for the most delicious woodfired portabello feta spinach pizza you can imagine. (it seems we have been burning so many calories that we get hungry its right now, and everything is the best we have ever had.)

Lunch is a good time for us to discuss the next few days itinerary.  on the warmshowers website we found someone to call (George) about 70+ miles, 2 days away.  He asked where we were at, Rich said Winthrop, he asked where in Winthrop, and Rich said, a pizza place... then (click).  George walked up on the deck!  He happened to own the place and was working on his building project in the back.  We spent a while talking about a better route that he recommended and will take us through Canada.  That is another example of how random chance encounters just about every day have made this a rich adventure.

Washington Pass Reduex

The American Alps. This time with less snow. Many waterfalls, large and small, passing by them at 4mph you can smell the crisp melting snow.

There was a few miles of road work with a pilot car, impassable for bicycles, so the construction company had a schoolbus shuttle just for cyclists. A perfect driver too- waiting just for us. A big Harley guy with tattoos,  very happy for such a gravy job he said. He helped lift Richs 100lb loaded bike, then picked up my 45lb tank and said this is light!

I am very happy with the trailer setup. This time I installed skinnier tires with earthguards to be much easier with less resistance, and even though the trailer weighs out a little more, it is more aerodynamic. I don't feel as "done" by the end of a long day.  It is a challenge on the rainy, steep, slick surface on the east side of the pass- the trailer's weight was pushing the bike, felt fishtaily, could barely stop it. But usually I can handle it to 35 mph.

Diablo Lake

some unexpected climbing and a narrow dark tunnel gave a good workout today. The tunnel was scary because so many Sunday drivers flying past probably wouldnt pay attention to flashing "bicyclists in tunnel" sign.  So we attached every little blinking light and reflective we had to the backs of our bikes, and tried to race through it, but it was uphill. 

Getting some elevation. Thats the view from the bridge, riding by Skagit river.

Arlington to Diablo

Only one thing needs to be said about this stage- Cascade Organic Fruit Stand, which we planned our day around berry shortcake and ice cream for lunch. Stayed for an hour and kept going back for more. 

Starting through the foothills to the pass.

Issaquah to Arlington to Concrete

Making good miles- 55 yesterday and 60 today. Feels a little like that game Chutes and Ladders- didn't we already cover Washington, and we have to do Washington Pass again? But Rich is a genuine purist, wouldn't consider driving 1000 miles into the trip, we are truly going the whole route point to point.

Yesterday we had planned to stay at River Meadows State Park, but GPS sent us down the wrong road so we headed back into town. It was too late to make it a motel 5 miles away, so we saw this church- perhaps they would let us set up our tent there?  No one answered to ask, but this little bible sculpture was by the door- we figured they wouldn't mind since we would leave early.

On the way to Concrete I took some nice pictures of Mt. Baker between foothills and Skagit Valley farms, but the camera didn't save them properly.  :-(

Regrouping, Rewinding, Rerouting

Had to return to Seattle short notice.  Instead of driving back to Yellowstone to pick up where we left off, we've decided to do the Northern Tier, which runs closer to the Canadian Border.  Will be starting the second trip out next week.

First pictures of the wildlife-

The sport in Yellowstone seems to be tagging wildlide by photo. A bear! Elk! Sleeping Bison! All within a few yards of the road, which is lined with cars, winnebagos, and tourists with cameras trying to get as close as stupidly possible.  You're driving along and there are cars parked by side (or even blocking the road) What do they see?!?  What is it?!? Is it a bear?!? On the short detour to see the Petrified tree, 20 cars blocked the narrow road, with people walking up to the center with cameras. Its like you're going to the fair and there's not enough parking so they park up the road and walk in.  So what do I do? We eventually drive squeezing past, and I take a picture through the window. I am so ashamed.

That seems tone the dilemma of this park. Should it be wild? Or should this wilderness experience be a "park" belong to the people, accessable by short paved easy path. There are even "villages" of Disneyworld-like stores and convenience foods. I feel it has been loved to death. 

Yet, just a day ago two hikers were just a mile or so into the park on an established path, (which only 2% of visitors seem to go beyond 1/3 mile it seems.)  They saw a mama grizzly bear with 3 cubs, ignored the danger, (its her territory!) and blithley continued. The two hikers were mauled, killing one, the first fatality by a bear in the park since 1984. The rangers decided mama just being a bear, protecting her cubs, so they closed the trail and area, and are letting her be.

West Yellowstone- milestone! 1000 miles

Passed a motivated and cheerful group of college- age cyclists crossing the country the other direction Illini4000.org. Fun to talk with them- Best of Luck, and I would tell them they will go far in life, but it seems they already have!

Passed by many fly fishers, the main sport in this part of Montana. Waters are still high, kinda brown for fish but improving.

So glad to make it to West Yellowstone. mile 1000! One rest day to visit the park, (by car lol) then a day riding south over a major pass and the continental divide, through the park and camping not far from Old Faithful, then the day after our direction heads true east.

Next post or two will be about Yellowstone Park.

Mt. Biking in Bear Country

bear spray where you need it....

he said his wife is training for a marathon, running 17 miles this morning, so he is riding with her for support.  There are about 30 grizzlies in the area.

Ennis to West Yellowstone

Rode past several mt ranges at 10mph.  And we were supposed to make west yellowstone but the headwinds kicked up brutally, over 25mph with higher gusts. Rich pulled, I drafted.  And the road went straight and hot for miles, making mirages way ahead.  we only made it a little more than halfway to West.  ( It reminded me of what a solo motorcyclist from Canada told me when i met her in Sula. She said somes friends rode bicycles across canada, thought after the Rockies would be easier. They hit headwinds where they could look back at the end of the day and see where they started in the morning.  A few days of that and they said, goals are goals but lets take a train for a while.)

When we came to a downhill, where we should have gone 25+, Rich went into a full tuck and we were going 8. It was kinda funny really, if he wasn't working so hard.

Halfway was  West Fork campground, where the valley narrowed and it changed to fly fishing area. We met Matt from Davis Calif. Rich asked him if he knew a good friend of his, and he did! (thanks for the beer Matt!) small world.....

I've fixed the comment form settings- anyone can now leave comments on this blog!

A few people have told me they couldn't leave a comment, but now I finally figured how to reset it where anyone can.  Looking forward to hearing from you!

Pass into Ennis.

A tough climb in hot weather, but certainly worth the extraordinary view.

Saw a herd of pronghorn antlope but I can only post 3 pictures....

Alder Gulch

The money came from gold, discovered in 1860's.  It led to a 14 mile long city of mining from Virginia City to Alder.  By the turn of the century, companies were dredging the entire valley, literally turning the soil inside out leaving it nothing but rocks.  Dredging financed Harvard in the 1920's.  Now the valley is all but abandoned, miles and miles of water tainting tailings- mounds of rocks not suitable for growing or livestock. They seem proud of their colorful history, but it will take centuries for the land to heal.

Virginia City

This historical town decided to go the tourist route, with alot of kitchy stores, candy and ice cream,  but still fun to stop for a few pictures before we headed up the pass. 

Nevada City

this old town is a living history museum. we didn't pay the $8 admission to mill around inside the village, but it seemed no one else does either.  Notice the old fire station 1.  It was getting into high 80's so it was a quick rest to stop for a Ginger Pop.